Wagyu

Horikoshi-san handed me the 4-kilo bag of wagyu I had ordered and shot me a look.   He did a slight head feint and his eyes lit up for a second, as he breathed the following words with uncharacteristic reverence, “Nama de taberareru.”  He often tells me I can eat the beef raw, because that’s the kind of wagyu he gets.  If the meat doesn’t look good he won’t buy it from the supplier.  He has a small shop with loyal customers that trust him, so his standards are high.

When Horikoshi-san gave me “that look,” I knew the beef that day was something extra special.  My 18-year-old son, Christopher, and I had been going through a rough spot, so on the drive home, the idea to make steak tartare for him and me jumped into my mind.  I decided to shelf the beef stew I had planned that night until the following day and for the rest of the family, just reheat the school lunch risotto.  Christopher loves steak tartare as much as I do (maybe more), but the others prefer their meat cooked. 

Touching food makes me feel alive, so back in my kitchen I didn’t waste any time tearing open the package.  I cut off a choice-looking hunk, and hand chopped the meat with a razor sharp Japanese butcher knife.  Rummaging around in the closet, I pulled out a bag of Italian salt-packed capers, and soaked a handful in cold water.  My gentle hands tossed Suka-san’s butter lettuce leaves with basil chiffonade leftover from lunch, as I drizzled in a bit of Navarro olive oil and homemade red wine vinegar.  I mounded the glistening leaves alongside the chopped wagyu, and then broke one of our farm eggs into a bowl.  With lightly cupped fingers, I scooped out the plump orange yolk and nestled it gently into a little hollow I had nudged apart in the meat.  After draining the capers, I chopped them and strew them over the meat, along with some chopped garden jalapeño and local onion.   My steak tartare only lacked a bit of bread, so I popped a couple slices of pain au levain in the toaster and finished the plate with a sprinkling of Sicilian sea salt and a few grinds of the peppermill.

Tadaaki and the boys practice the ancient samurai art of sword on Thursday afternoons, a four-hour round trip by train.  On the way home, they usually call to find out what the dinner plan is, as in our house, that’s always the question of the day.  So when Christopher called from the train to ask what was for dinner that night, I told him. 

His immediate and deeply satisfied, “Yesssss,” erased the recent tension-filled days.

I had been feeling slightly squeezed in by Japanese life during the fall.  Andrew and Matthew starting Japanese school, meant we no longer shared the same daily world as we had when homeschooling.  Now they live in Tadaaki’s world more than ever, and I have been constantly butting my head up against the inanely arbitrary school rules.  Christopher’s impending SAT’s, TOEFL’s and college applications were also causing untold anxiety (at least in one of us…and it wasn't Christopher).  I was at odds with everyone (and myself).  So the next day, I decided a deep, dark stew would restore a bit of warmth in my life.  The stew was simple, yet infused with wine and herbs...and quite simply one of the best things I have ever tasted.  Although some people turn to pharmaceuticals, food never fails to soothe what ails me.

Beef Stew (Autumn): Cut 4 lbs slightly marbled wagyu into 2-inch cubes.  Film olive oil in the bottom of a heavy cast iron pot set over hot heat and dump in the meat with a little sea salt and fresh ground pepper.  Stir fairly frequently to brown evenly.  Once the meat juices have evaporated and the meat juices start to sizzle, pour in one 750 ml bottle of moderately nice Cabernet (the meat is expensive, so don’t skimp too much on the wine, go for at least $10+ a bottle).  Bring to a boil with the top on and then simmer for about 30 to 40 minutes on medium low.  Chop 4 medium garden tomatoes (slightly green is ok) and add to stew along with 1 small head chopped rose garlic, a half handful each of chopped garden thyme and oregano and 1 cup homemade vegetable herb broth made from vegetable ends and herbs (or substitute Health Valley canned chicken broth cut 1:1 with water).  Bring back to a boil over high heat, then turn down to medium low and simmer for another 40 minutes with the top off.  Serve with milk & butter mashed potatoes, braised bok choy from the field and sautéed whole garden cherry tomatoes.

Winter Variation with onions

You know, food just never sticks in one place.  How can you make a recipe for something that is constantly changing?  The trick is to get the idea and then let your feelings find the way.  It's less about what do they have at the supermarket today (everything), than what is your favorite farm (1st priority to figure out) and what are they growing?  No garlic (obviously, not the season and the farm isn't giving up their reserves...but green garlic is available, so adjustment is easy).  I buy a year's worth of rose garlic for the school in June, since our fall crop is dicey.  But there are always so many other enticing aromatics, so I just don't miss (or need) the garlic.  That is what I love.  The serendipity and the boundaries.

Ultimately, that is freedom.

...and frozen fall cherry tomatoes

Comments

[preeva tramiel]

A great summary of how and why to adjust with the seasons, Nancy-
san!
I bet the stew with onions would be a big hit in my house!
The tartare would be a big hit with me!
--preeva

[Mora Chartrand-Grant]

Nancy, you brought back such wonderful memories of my mother and me enjoying steak tartare when my father was off on one of his flights. She would purchase the leanest, freshest ground beef she could find, to which she added an egg yolk, minced onion or shallots, chopped parsley, drained and chopped capers, a spoonful or so of ketchup and mayonnaise, several shakes of Lea & Perrin Worcestershire sauce, and salt and pepper. The steak tartare was served with a large green salad and a big bowl of homemade frites. Now that was a meal! And it would definitely be on my list of foods for my last meal on earth.

[Dirk L. Archibold-Chester]

This sounds fantastic. I am a fan of steak tartare myself.

Dirk
Food Lovers Heaven

[Nancy Singleton Hachisu]

Preeva: Funny, how the cook loves to eat raw things. I think we get "cooked out." I love stews of all kinds and find them incredibly versatile. But there is something about a beef stew that is so satisfying. It really reaches in and grabs you. But also, beef stews have so much breadth in their renditions. Great to see you last week.

Mora: When I first was in Belgium I went to a party where they served tartines of "filet americain." I thought, gross, raw meat. Then my host mother served me "filet americain" (steak tartare to all of you who unlike Mora, do not have a Belgium mother), frites & homemade mayonnaise with a green salad. Oh my god, that immediately became my most favorite meal. I am totally with you on that. And I still think that rates as my number one.

DirK: Steak Tartare & Sushi...what is it about raw proteins that is so great? Maybe the clean taste.

Nancy

[Rodney Fong]

I have not had the chance to have steak tartare very often, but I am sure that wagyu beef is the way to go with it. One story about steak tartare I recall was when Phil Kurjan made it at Los Arcos one weekend and nearly caused a riot among the "heathens", as Phil called them, for making him cook it.

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